When you experiment with materials, even just play with them, their properties expand your outlet for creative expression. This doesn’t happen when you simply watch them on TV, you need to really use them to learn their characteristics, how they bend, stretch, stick, reflect, and sound. Such is the case with cardboard, spray adhesive, tinfoil and tape. I’ve used these ingredients to build several DIY ringlights and Tent Soft boxes.
So here is new twist, a light mod that sprays light out like a star against a wall. The basic construction is a strip of card with slits in it wrapped in a ‘U’ shape surrounding a toilet roll coated in foil with a flash mount made of popsicle sticks. The band-aid wrapper is the result of using my finger to guide the leatherman saw blade (not all experiments are a success).
Quick reviews on some lenses i have played with lately:
Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Bought: $1300
Sold: $1670
Usage:
This lens is a head turner, it’s also built to last. Rubber bumper on the front, metal latch for the hood, tripod mount has 2 holes, either for better balance with different weight bodies or use of tubes or simply when one wears out. Focus is perfect, not as fast as Canon but deadly accurate.
Image Quality
I’ve noticed a trend with the newer lenses, I think a side effect of asynchronous lenses, the transition from sharp to bokeh is unnatural looking. This lens doesn’t have that. IQ is as good as it gets, really.
I’ve become a bit of a lens dealer lately, sometime owning a lens for as short as 1 day. In most cases i break even and in a few cases i’ve made a profit, the only case where i lose money is in buying new lenses and eating the new-> used depreciation.
On D70 (Paid 750, sold $500):
50mm f1.8 AF D (paid $125 new, sold $100), Noisy AF, distortion free, very neutral lens, not really sharp or soft.
70-300mm (paid $80 sold $120) Decent bokeh, but other wise a cheap plastic lens with a ton of chromatic abberation and very poor contrast, blurry at 300.
24mm 2.8 (bought and sold twice $275 – $270) prime, sharp, distortion free. contrasty, fast, sharp. light solid metal build.
on D80 (paid new 900 with 18-135 which sold for 200 bringing price of d80 to 700)
18-135 OK lens, medium build, AFS zoom was ok, shap, medium distortion, contrasty, medium bokeh.
18-200 (paid 725 new sold 600) decent build, zoom creep, AFS accurate, VR effective but adds unnatural quality to images, terrible bokeh, very convenient, all round one of the most useful lenses, it doesn’t do anything bad but it doesn’t do anything great, just does Everything ok. Longest owned lens.
24mm 2.8 ( $180 – $180 ) prime, Second time owning this lens, i bought it and a 50mm again becasue i was tired of the poor quality of 18-200mm images so i went the opposite route and got 2 primes. They are both great, but changing lenses on the job it a pain.
50mm AF (non d) ($65, 70), better construction that the D model but optically identical.
80-200mm AF-D ED ($650 – $700) Sharpest bloody lens I’ve ever used, insanely sharp, focus was always spot on beautiful bokeh, no, the best bokeyh i have ever seen. I worked with this lens and 24mm prime and loved it. it was almost perfect. It’s just too big and heavy and a bit tele for a digital sized sensor. It also only focuses down to like 3 feet which is useless when kids are climbing on you. I will buy this lens again someday, it so sharp and yet natural.
17-50mm Tamron Di II. (paid $300-$30 sold 270) i bought this on ebay and it had some crap between the internal two elements so i got a discount, cleaned it, which fixed it, then sold it. It was actually a perfect lens for digital, close focus, creamy bokeh, decent focus speed, sharp. Build was junky. I guess it get really soft at higher apertures, but who cares. I almost bought another one, but after using the 80-200 i couldn’t bring my self to use another non pro lens. I might have made a mistake.
28-85 3.5-45 AF Macro (paid $95, on sale now), optically great lens, but the AF is inaccurate in low light, ruins otherwise great shots) close focus is a bit to far, i need to be able to shoot someone accross the table, about .5m.
28-70mm f2.8 AFS (paid $900, unsold (possible keeper (update sold for $900 becasue it was hit or miss AF)) I was able to live with the focal length of 28-85 but i needed it in a better package so this is what i got, i would have gone for the 24-70 but it was too expensive. Anyway i find most of my photos are between 30mm and 70mm anyway so it should be perfect. I still need a like 17mm prime and a 180mm prime or something similar for those occasional landscape or close candid.
17-50mm Tamron Di II. (yup i got another one for around 200, on my D80 now) So this lens is actually perfect for DX, at 17mm no one really noticies the distortion anyway. It focuses REALY close which is perfect for kids and at 50mm on DX it’s basically a portrait lens. 2.8 is sharp enough but has very poor exposure accuracy, which on digital is easy to correct with visual feedback from the LCD. At F4 the exposre error is gone. The lens has issues at small apertures, but that not what i ever use this lens for so i don’t care. So basically it’s perfect for what i use it for but sucks at everything else. All i need now is for my 70-200 F4 to have VR. The color is a bit strange at f2.8, makes skin kind of peachy.
70-200mm F4 AF. Paid ($180) This is a pro quality lens that doesn’t weigh as much as the 2.8 but has 99% of the quality. The bokeh, sharpness and AF are not quite as amaizing but they are not distracting at all either so it’s a good middle ground for now. I really like it now that i got a 35mm camera too. I got it from a Japanese guy on Craigslist, he bought it when he lived in Japan, it is in absolute mint shape, the zoom ring is so smooth it’s ahead of it’s time, it’s a really well crafted lens.)
Rented: 12-24: great lens image quality is great, weight and size are good, close focus is great, i just hate to spend a grand on it when canon has a 10-20 thats so much better. It’s also not as good investment since FX is out now, but i see the price has dropped to 800 used now that FX is out. I may get this someday if I’m still using aps-c.
N80 (paid $60 from Ebay). My previous experience with film cameras has been with manual focus ones or disposable, so compared to my DSLR they seemd like a step down. Boy was i wrong, the camea is every bit as good as my D80 the main difference is that you trade a large LCD for a large viewfinder and a larger image (35mm)
Tested:
70-30mm AFS VR: Someone at the Como zoo had this and let me try it on my camera. MUCH better than the cheap g version. creamy bokeh, i almost got this lens but I’ve learned that i need 2.8 and a pro lens.
17-55 2.8 AFS. Great lens but i cant handle the poor distorion performance or the $ for a lens that won’t work on FX.
55-200mm VR (Paid 225, returned 30min later) AF to0 slow, close focus sucked, plasticly, useless lens. the 18-200 was miles better, faster. Even bokeh was better on 18-200 because you could focus closer.
34mm PC, i wouldn’t mount on my D80 but it tried it on a f100 it was really cool, i need one. I tried making one out of a 24mm prime but had focus trouble. I will need one of these lenses, need. The new 24mm PC looks sweet.
I just got the 28-70 2.8 and really like it so far, i think it may be a keeper. So we’ll see. I though it would be heavier and bigger but it’s not too bad.
Flashes:
sb-600 (gift, retuned) optical TTL rocks. It’s a cool flash to accompany and DSLR that can control it you get instant seamless bi-directional light by putting this thing ona tripod on the the otherside of the room, works perfectly. I only traded for becasue i could get 2 sb-28 for it’s price.
sb-800, rented twice, when i need another flash i rent them.
sb-400 (paid 125) best on camera flash ever, tiny, fast, quiet, cheap, TTL works perfectly. Doesn’t work with my wireless ebay triggers, boo.
sb-28 paid $90 for each of my three. Work horses, I’ll buy more when i break them, powerful no nonsense light.

Unable to find some colored cellophane anywhere I had an aha moment over Christmas while playing with the wrapper of a delicious lindt truffle, while playing with it the fail backing came off to reveal an almost perfect CTO gel.
Total Cost $2.99, and you can eat the leftovers. Go on, get your SO some chocolates!
Try NizzOTE
Web based napkin / post it
Use NotifyURL
track your links
Materials:
Store bought equivalent cost +$500
Last time i made a softbox out of tinfoil and card board, the result worked (and got front page of digg.com) but it was a little small for anything larger than a face so i wanted a bigger one, but these things don’t scale as well as expected (think a second about a 5′ cardboard box.
My kids have this tent from Ikea which is very basic since it’s not meant for sleeping in, but perfect for re-purposing! I didn’t have the heart to take away their tent so i splurged on a new one for less than 10 bucks. They got really excited when they saw me getting interested in their toy, so we played a bit while i built my plan of attack.
The execution was simple, i cut out the blue stuff from the bottom and sewed it over the ‘door’ way on the side. Then i turned it inside out and used spay adhesive to glue down the mylar foil (from ax-man surplus). Then i placed 4 bits of velcroe to the edges and placed the shower curtain liner over it to trim to size. The bracket i made is a bit flimsy but consists of some squares clamping the cross of the tent poles and a ball bunjee to hold the flash in place.
Here i am cutting up the sheets of mylar to be spay adhered to the inside of the tent, while wathing some videos. Libby is playing classic gameboy Tetris on a gameboy that has a backlight. The cats being lazy.
I used little bits of Velcro to stick the the front diffuser on. This way i can remove the cover for whatever bizare reason, i haven’t thought of yet.
So i distilled the the elements of my first
DIY ring flash (cardboard and duct tape hobo version) into a more compact version that not only gets the cool catch light but also does the shadow halo effect (the large ring flash didn’t do the shadow because the light source was larger than the subject, making the shadow hidden behind the subject). I also removed the diffuser material which was unnecessary in the first place and was only diminishing efficiency. This version is very similar to other models with one major distinction, this has a non-concentric construction which is responsible for a perfectly uniform light distribution without the use of diffusers or fancy prisms, just mylar, plastic, tape, and glue. Here is the construction sequence:
First I cut a strip from a sheet of acrylic,
i first cut with a scissor but found it easier to just score with a blade then snap
from behind. The thickness should be the thickness of the flash head that you’ll
be using. Cut a similar strip of foil then use spay adhesive to join the two.
2. Cut to a length that when rolled
up will fit around your lens. Then use some super glue to syick it in place as seen
on the right.
3. Now place it on a sheet of foam core
and draw a circle thats the diameter of you ring plus 7.5″ that way if you have
the inner ring 1.5″ from one side it will be 4x that distance from the other side.
This is non-concentric placement of the inner ring is what makes this ringflash
give a uniform light distribution, that sounds good to me.
4. Cut out the panels and cover with
foil. Then cut a hole for the ring an a larger hole in the other panel that .5″
larger. 5. Cut out another strip as in the first step but make this one long enough
to wrap around the outside. Then tape it all together.
Here you see the classic halo shadow.
NEXT UP: Make a giant softbox from an Ikea tent.
I saw an article1 that compared the way several experienced artists eyes tracked an image vs the eyes of self proclaimed ‘non-artists’. The difference was striking, the difference was compounded when the groups were asked to draw the images that they had looked at.
The non artists eyes focussed on the center and the details, eyes, lips, nose, sun, moon and when asked to draw a duplicate there rendering had disproportional details like large eyes, lips sun, moon and were poorly aligned.
The artists eyes uniformly tracked the image with a random tracking pattern, seeing the ‘big picture’.
So for me I’m always trying to re-learn to look at something not for the details but for the larger shapes and proportions and when looking through a viewfinder I “frame for the edges”, I practice by looking quickly at an image then close my eyes and try to rebuild that image in my head.(Ken Rockwell?) With photography it’s easy to just try and just compose to get everything in the shot, but removing items is what makes the shot interesting, keep you guessing. In your head re-framing objects becomes effortless and you have to think about whole objects not just the details. Oh and skip rule of thirds!
1. Eye tracking article scienceblogs.com/cognitivedaily/2007/03/artists_look_diff…
Also Check out this Flickr discussion on the topic, some Great tips!
“Choose a single subject and shoot it every day. Flowers, building, your kid… it doesn’t matter, but you gotta come up with 60 different shots of the same thing.”
“Get Learning to See Creatively: Design, Color & Composition in Photography
Get the flash off the camera, even a ring flash!!!
The Ring Flash / Ring Light is a unique light source since it gives you a hard light but because the light comes from all around the lens the only shadow is a darkened halo around a subject, but the subject it self is uniformly lit.
My favorite effect of a ring light is the ring in the eyes and the topographical effect of the highlights it creates on the face, normally a head on light source would flatten a face but the ring flash makes highlights on relief areas of the subject. I fell in love with the effect in this image by Janosch Simon
(this images is SFW but his full portfolio may not be if you live in the US)
Creating a ring flash can either be done with expensive flash units that are actually capable of a circular arc in a circular flash tube/bulb, or by modifying the straight round beam of a hot shoe flash unit.
There seems to be two ways to go about it, diffuse the source then mask it, or use precise reflections to redirect the beam. The second would result in higher efficiency and a higher “focal length” of the flash since there would be more direct light.
In order to control the size of the ring on the face you have to change the distance of the ring or the size of the ring. Having it off camera would allow you to take telephoto shots and still have large ring in the eyes ( a telephoto shot with a tradition on camera ring flash would be far away enough to reduce the reflection of the flash in the eyes to a bright dot)
What i did was adapt this great design by
The Feral Photographer and made the following changes.
1:made the circles NOT concentric, the light escaping from the diffuser causes the light level to get dimmer at the end opposite the flash, similar to , here it comes, the inverse square law. So i sized and located the inner circle to so that the distance at the far end was four times less than the flash end this would result in a uniform distribution of the light.
2: Made it larger, this means that i could use longer zoom.
Materials:
2 sheets of cardboard
mylar/tin foil
Tape, Knife
Diffuser material is a Target plastic bag
Final Effect:
click image for super hi-res image (copyright yo)
So Alexander Johnson took my image and had is skilled way with it creating this image:
Post Processing by Alexander Johnson – Thanks!
This line haunts me to this day, uttered by my 7th grade math teacher who’s teaching style made him the only teacher that i ever respected. (He did things like throw kids out of class, via the window; pretend to take ‘pills’ (mints); threw my slide rule back at me; pitched a cricket ball at top spin at the black board to wake everyone up; held a kid over the garbage can to make him pickup and eat his the lunch he wastefully chucked; gave me the day off when i aced tests; and finally called other teachers philistines) , hmm those things don’t really give him much credibility do they? It wasn’t a big deal to me when my 17 b-day passed but as time goes i on i get more and more worried that my time is out, especially when i see kids do amazing things like this, things i still dream of doing but never imagined were possible at 17:
joey(17) – world traveling commercial photog, with people skills and business smarts (sells a $300 training book)
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/10/young-blood-chat-with-photographer-joey.html
and this 17 girl making $70k/month on myspace
http://www.fastcompany.com/magazine/118/girl-power.html
I feel like i am totally capable of doing these things but as time goes on i haven’t made them happen ( sounds like i need an infomercial or something ) at 17 i had the time and drive but i didn’t have the business sense or the people skills, over time I’ve rounded out my people and business ability but now i have precious little time.
Polyphasic sleep is looking good again, I’ve quit caffeine addiction (including chocolate) and aiming at minimizing meat, i exercise every day and would be able to nap at work, but while taking naps every 4 hours would give me 6 more hours of waking time a day it’s cost is 2 hours of time i usually spend awake with other people, and that is the hardest thing to overcome.
I’m sure that I’ll figure something out, so here’s to proving my math teacher wrong while still putting my people connections first.
First of all it works. I can shoot 200mm at 1/50second which is perfect, because thats long enough to get some light in the lens and freeze most subject motion. A non VR lens would have to be shot at least 1/150s to compensate for lens motion(depending on current coffee consumption levels). The lens work really slick overall, the manual focus override ring is perfectly intuitive, the lens doesn’t creep/slip at all. It is a bit heavier than my other lens, but still much lighter than an 80-200 F2.8. It’s a lot like using a digital camcorder image stabilization, except this is actually moving the lens so you can see it working through the viewfinder, this instant feedback lets you learn to work with it. It also looks hard core with lots of switches, gauges, gold lettering and what-not.